In the Heart of Sicily: 4 Days of Trekking and Archaeology between Enna and Caltanissetta

If you’re an environmental tourism and archaeological trekking enthusiast looking to explore an authentic Sicily away from the tourist crowds, consider spending three days in its very heart, the province of Enna. There, you can discover the places where the fascinating myth of Demeter and Kore is thought to have originated.

Having no coastline, the province of Enna can offer a pleasant alternative to packed beaches and charm you with its 6 protected natural areas. You can enjoy the peace and quiet and admire breathtaking views while walking along trails preserving traces of ancient settlements dating from Prehistory to the Middle Ages.

So put on some comfortable shoes and follow Rossella’s tips during your four-day discovery of mythological and archaeological sites immersed in an enchanting landscape.

Let's begin with the myth of Demeter and Kore

It is said that along the shores of Lake Pergusa, the god of the underworld, Hades, kidnapped the beautiful Kore, who was the daughter of Demeter, the goddess of harvest and grain. The mother managed to make an agreement with the underworld deity so that she could keep her daughter for six months a year, the period when spring blossomed, and summer fruits were harvested. After six months, the daughter would return to her husband, and the mother, in her grief, made the earth cold and the trees bare during the winter months.

Our four-day itinerary starts right from the place "where spring is eternal”, a fascinating setting of the mythological tale linked to the worship of the two deities and the birth of the seasons, as described by various poets and historians of ancient times.

Day 1: Cozzo Matrice, Enna, Archaeological Museum of Palazzo Varisano

We will begin our journey from Cozzo Matrice, which was identified by historians as the cave from which Hades came out to kidnap Kore. In front of this opening, located on the rocky peak of Cozzo, the remains of a sacred temenos have been brought to light. In the slopes below, you can visit a necropolis consisting of artificial cave-like tombs (locally called ‘a grotticella’), which testifies to the fruitful relationship with the Greek populations that had settled on the Sicilian coasts, as evidenced by the artifacts now preserved at the Varisano Archaeological Museum in Enna.

The next stop will be the summit of Henna, the location of the most important sanctuary in the entire Roman world dedicated to the goddess Ceres (the Roman name for the goddess Demeter). There, we will visit the Lombard Castle, north of which you can see a magnificent rock called "Rocca di Cerere”, where the sanctuary was supposed to be located, as described by Cicero, with two colossal statues of Demeter and Triptolemus standing out.

After visiting the castle, we will take a pleasant stroll through the historic center of Enna toward Palazzo Varisano, a prestigious 18th-century palace built on an ancient 16th-century residence. The building now houses an archaeological museum with collections from the main sites in the province.

Day 2: Morgantina, Archaeological Museum of Aidone, and Lake Pergusa

Are you ready to explore one of the most extraordinary and well-preserved archaeological sites in Sicily? Reach Morgantina and get lost in this stunning archaeological park with well-preserved streets, houses, artisan quarters, theaters, and worship areas immersed in a breathtaking mountain landscape.

The Goddess of Morgantina in the Aidone Archaeological Museum

Take a break in Aidone, at a small restaurant or café, before proceeding to visit its archaeological museum that houses a masterpiece of Greek statuary, the goddess of Morgantina. Stolen and exhibited for years at the Paul Getty Museum in Malibu, it returned to its place of origin a few years ago. Admire this and other exceptional works and let yourself be carried away by the stories of your expert guide, imagining how the public and private spaces of ancient Morgantina could have been decorated.

Finish the day with a stop at Lake Pergusa, mentioned by several classical authors as the place where Kore was kidnapped by Hades.

Day 3: Sulfur Mines and Villa del Casale

The day will begin with a visit to the Floristella - Grottacalda Mining Park, where nature and history intertwine. Walking through the woods, you will listen to stories about the many miners and workers who were brought to Enna to work and populated the area to meet the growing demand for sulfur, a mineral necessary for the production of gunpowder.

The extreme working conditions, including child labor (the children workers were known as "carusi"), inspired the works of many illustrious authors, such as Verga, Pirandello, and Sciascia. The writers immortalized this area as one of the most significant industrial archaeology settlements in southern Italy.

After lunch at a farmhouse, discover of one of the most important UNESCO sites in Sicily, the Roman Villa del Casale, built between the end of the 3rd and the beginning of the 4th century AD, which preserves 3500 square meters of mosaic floors, the largest such villa found so far.

Day 4: CALASCIBETTA, NECROPOLIS OF REALMESE, AND VALLONE "CANALOTTO"

A short valley separates Enna from the town of Calascibetta, also perched on a rocky summit.

The tour of the surrounding territory is a true immersion in nature and archaeology: you will discover the stunning Realmese Necropolis, an entire wall of white limestone dotted with 288 cave-like tombs dating back to the period between the 9th and 6th centuries BC. A short distance away, the rock village of Vallone Canalotto continues to testify to the local age-old troglodytism tradition, with rock tombs, cave dwellings, and semi-subterranean structures used for viticulture and other artisanal works.

Realmese Necropolis

Our tour ends with a visit to Calascibetta: we will cross the winding and narrow streets of the Arab-Norman Kalt el Scibet until we reach the Mother Church on the summit. From here, enjoy the vast panorama that spans the entire island.

Between hiking and cultural visits, there will be no shortage of culinary stops to discover the excellences of this pristine territory! Among them stands out the "piacentino ennese," a cheese with an intense yellow color, due to the addition of saffron... yellow as the golden fields of wheat and the sulfurous deposits of this Sicilian hinterland.

If you want to know more about the history of Sicilian cheeses, you can also read this article of ours.

If you want more information about tours in this area of Sicily, contact us and we will give you all the information you need to plan your unique and off-the-beaten-path trip.